Come Home to Eat 2010

What were you doing last week at this time?

If you weren’t at CHTE (Come Home to Eat), here’s what you missed!

jim in the dunk seat

step right up, folks!

But wait: there’s more!

rachel's hat

foodies in training

dynamic duo

And here’s the long and short of it: Roger was a riot, the food was fantastic, the music superb, the dancing lively, Jim got dunked and then leied, and everyone went home happy. Thank you, thank you everyone who worked so hard on this event. You are truly and deeply appreciated. Just as a stranger came up to me and said, I’ll now pass along to you: “Thank you for all you do.”

Until next time…

Life giving

Well, I guess I must have complained too many times about Jim’s driving, because today we’re walking. It’s hot, I’m not wearing the right shoes for this, and to get to the water tank we have to ford an irrigation ditch then slip between some very shiny new barbed wire.

On the way up we encounter the herd. “Stay behind me,” says Jim. Is one of these very large animals going to charge me, I wonder, as I secure my camera and walk a little faster.

prepping for the blast

“I don’t have any mean cows. But there’s a new baby and she has a VERY good mother,” Jim explains. I fall into line behind Jim, attempting to become invisible. The baby is one day old, cute as a button—barely larger than a large dog, and cavorting around near its mother. Because I don’t want to disturb anyone and because I’d also like to make it down the hill alive, I keep the camera stowed.

We finally get to the top. Jim is not even winded. I am crawling. Never again will I complain about the driving.

Jim, I should add, had greeted me in a soaking wet long-sleeved sweatshirt that struck me as oddly out of place on a heating-up summer day. Seems he had already fallen into several irrigation ditches earlier this morning, blasted himself with water from another setup, and gotten into other assorted predicaments—all before 9 a.m. My life is a picnic compared with Jim’s, I think, now watching him setting out a large plank and connecting the irrigation pipe to the water tank.

The plank, he explains, is to prevent erosion when the water gushes out. Jim thinks of everything. I wait. This will be great: a huge blast of water to irrigate the dryland pasture at the top of the hill at the Personeni ranch. And then… oh.

That’s it? All I can say is, see for yourself.

On the slog down the hill I’m reflecting. Yes, I will come back in two weeks to see how the Blue wildrye, dryland clover, and Harding grass have taken off. The seed will have imbibed the water, broken dormancy, and will be springing to life. The baby cow will have been joined by more baby cows, carefully tended when necessary, during all-night vigils by Jim.

It’s so much darned effort to grow these blades of grass that feed the cows that feed us. Relentless sun, relentless heat, relentless work. I don’t want to get all philosophical, but it’s the clearest example I’ve seen of the interconnectedness of all the parts, all the pieces it takes to carry out best practices in ranching. And what’s the point?

get yours

I dig through my pockets for the answer and fish out two yellow tickets. Good friends. Good times. Good food. A counterbalance to labor through the fruits of the labor. I can hardly wait. Yeah. Get your tickets or just go! Come Home to Eat 2010 is only a few days away. You gotta see Jim get dunked.

Solar water, solar pasture, solar beef

“We’ll take the motorcycle,” says Jim.

they're out there

Huh?

As usual, he is kidding. And remorseless. As a hint of warmth creeps into the day on the morning breeze, we walk to the barn and clamber onto the gator. Today I’ve stopped by to look at Jim’s latest project, or rather, one more milestone in a project that began a full three years ago and is just now coming to fruition: a solar pump that irrigates the pasture and waters the cattle.

We’re at the Personeni ranch, home for 25 of Jim’s cows. To see the solar setup, we tour the area backwards, starting with the water’s destination then finding its source, and the source of energy that moves the water uphill to a storage tank that fills a trough for the cows. Getting to these destinations involves a bit of a cattle drive, or cattle entourage, as the cows run over to greet us, satisfy their curiosity, and move on up to shade at the top of the hill.

My camera safely stowed, our cross country drive takes us down a steep ravine then up to a hilltop seeded with Blue wildrye, dryland clover, and Harding grass. Jim’s irrigation plan calls for developing the 10 acres that comprise the shoulder and slope of the hill by irrigating as summer ends, essentially moving up the onset of winter.

Three years ago, Jim began the irrigation project with a small electric pump, bringing water through buried pvc pipe to a hillside thick with Yellow star thistle. In the second year seeding began, and the grasses that took hold began to out compete the star thistle. This year, with more seeding, irrigation with power from the solar pump, and the planting of trees in the fall, the pasture will gradually come into its own as a valuable resource for the cows.

Today’s run up the hill is partly to check on the cows, and to test the ball valve that Jim recently installed at the base of the 2500-gallon water tank. The tank fills in about 4 hours when the pump is in continuous full sun, and takes a little under a day to fill when it’s cloudy or when the solar panels are in partial shade. The tank empties in about 20 minutes once Jim opens the valve, then the valve is closed and the tank can fill again. Between now and around August 15, Jim will connect a network of pipes to the tank, distributing water across the hillside, and the scene will shift from gold to green.

cow standing under cedars

Our next stop: cow town at the top of the hill. Or maybe a better description would be the cow forest. With fresh water now in nearby troughs (bathtubs, actually) fed by the tank, they now have a place—a fine place—in which to lounge, chew their cud, and escape the summer heat.

“You can change the way cattle use an area by re-positioning their water and their salt lick,” Jim explains. “Left to their own devices, cattle will overgraze a pasture, so it’s important to move them around,” he adds.

We enter a cool grove of Incense cedar studded with Black oak and Ponderosa pine; a welcome respite of delicate green boughs. Where are the cows? I look more closely and they step out, curious, then retreat again to their comfortable bower. As Jim calls it, their bed ground. Indeed it is the stuff of dreamy dreams, up here away from the heat. An oasis. A Narnia. A…

“Hey—I thought you were in a hurry!” barks Jim, and I snap out of my reverie and snap some shots of the very lucky cows.

the pond and pump

Last stop—what I’ve been waiting to see: the solar pump and the pond.

We ramble down the hill on the gator, and I notice how the conifers give way to Blue oaks as we lose elevation. Jim’s dog Red hops up behind me to take a break from running on three legs (that’s another story) and acknowledge me with a kiss on the ear.

jim and the pump

We walk out to the solar pump at the edge of the three-acre pond that’s fed by NID (Nevada Irrigation District) water. It appears makeshift, but the pump is actually a sophisticated contraption with a small computer and five panels that generate enough force to move water from the pond up 143 vertical feet at 11.79 gallons per minute to fill the hilltop tank.

I flip the switch on the pump to run the test. What’s surprising is how quiet the pump is. So quiet, in fact, that once I turn it on I can still hear the swallows, the woodpeckers, and even the swish of fins from the bass gliding past at water’s edge. Here. Take a listen.

Is that cool or what? Lower energy bills for Jim. More grass for the cows. More biodiversity for the other creatures on the land. A soil profile that’s slowly gaining in organic matter, nutrients, and health. I’ve gotta admit, for a country guy, Jim’s really got things dialed in.

But don’t, and I mean DON’T tell him I said that, OK? We don’t want him to think that just because he’s bringing his solar pump online, he’s now all high-tech and fancy!

Next week: Irrigation begins, and Jim prepares for his Dunk Tank experience at Come Home to Eat.

Resolution, range management, and megafarm madness

When I feel my eyeballs fusing to the screen and the css and php code coalescing into a pulpy jumble, I know it’s time to get out.

at pasture's edge

Out on the range with Jim, that is, to fill my brain with that beautiful acid green of Nevada County spring.

Except that this year, spring is crowding summer’s turf on the calendar, with seemingly no end in sight to the cool temps and Midwestern weather pattern of rain showers on a nearly weekly (or daily) basis.

For Jim, this year’s springtime shift away from our Mediterranean climate is a Godsend.

“Every day that I don’t have to irrigate is like heaven on earth. It saves me $65 a day in irrigation cost, and the lion’s share of that is for PG&E,” Jim declares as we rumble by truck across pasture land he leases bordering the Bear River, just east of the Garden Bar crossing. As usual, I hang on for dear life as Jim ironically observes: “The ground looks smooth, but it’s not” and stomps on the gas.

Yeah, Jim, no kidding. Even herders Bubbas and Red are on the scramble, balancing adroitly between the bales of hay and the odd assortment of junk that Jim has in the back bed.

Bubbas, through the window

There are 18 animals here on Jim’s leased 237-acre Bear River parcel. Gee, does that mean about 13 acres per cow? Not quite. Seems that in proper range management, there’s a difference between actual acres and effective acres. Actual acres are the total acres in the parcel. Effective acres are the usable acres—once rocks, creeks, and very steep terrain are subtracted. (Kind of like actual pixels and effective pixels when working out the resolution of a photo. Yes! I knew I had something in common with Jim: resolution!) So there are about 10 acres per cow, once Jim has backed out the unusable acres and arrived at a total of 170 effective acres.

But there’s more in the equation. A big, big deal for figuring effective acres is water. Once our oddball spring weather has passed, Jim intends on irrigating 35 acres of this land to maintain its carrying capacity year ‘round. Here’s the plan. Over the summer, Jim will clean out the existing ditches here, plus install a half mile of surface irrigation pipe. As summer winds down the system will be ready, enabling Jim to move about 20 miner’s inches of water from the Wolf-Hanneman canal beginning in the middle of August. This will effectively move up the onset of autumn on the newly-irrigated land. It will also create a protective greenbelt and firebreak; a plus for the land owner and for the safety of Nevada County.

As I ponder all this, Jim gets a call on his cell and takes it. It’s another order!

is it for me?

Our prolonged spring is also prompting Jim to enhance his planting strategy on this parcel. This year he’s been seeding for fall dryland grass production as well as for irrigated pasture grass. The dryland grass will germinate and grow during the summer, then the irrigated pasture grasses will come on line early with the newly irrigated acreage. The cattle that are here now will be moved to Jim’s larger irrigated pastures in a few months once the spring grass disappears, but eventually they’ll be brought back here and they’ll be able to stay here year ‘round, as more and more of this Bear River parcel’s pasture is productive year ‘round. The benefit is less stress for the animals, moving from place to place.

Jim completes his call and, just to see if I’m paying attention, launches into an impromptu math lesson.

All this for 18 cows, 35 acres, one firebreak, and a skillful partnership with nature’s endless variables. Then it hits me: this is real farming. This is not engineered or freakishly controlling. This is nature calling the shots, testing the resolve of a guy who pets his cows and glues his hat together with duct tape. And I can’t help thinking about a story I saw awhile back in the SF Chron: “Battle Over Slow Food Heats Up in Heartland” by Carolyn Lochhead. If you haven’t already seen this piece, it’s an overview of the controversies that surround Jim’s type of farming.

When I first skimmed it, I couldn’t believe what I was reading. The megafarms are getting bent out of shape over guys like Jim. It seems ridiculous. Of all the assertions in the story, the statement by Deborah Stockton of the National Independent Consumers and Farmers Association, rings most true for me. “What we are promoting is actually very, very old agriculture, and what’s considered conventional is new” is Stockton’s quote. I’ve heard Jim say exactly the same words when explaining the care he takes in nurturing the pastures that sustain his cattle.

What do you think, readers? This blog is open for your comments. And, while you’re dipping into SF Gate, check out this story about the USDA’s draft document on food safety at meat plants and what it may mean for small operations like Jim’s.

I’ll be writing more about this later, once I check in with Jim for his take on it. Until then, enjoy the pix of farming the way it used to be and, for the time being, still is—thanks to the hard work and resolution of ranchers like Jim Gates.

a good day

lupine

just a sip

Sound bite

What’s wrong with these pictures? OK, another city-ish question, but I still have to ask: with so much brilliant green grass covering the hills like velvet, why are these cows so interested in dry alfalfa flakes? Jim, a walking compendium of all things cow, is only too happy to oblige an answer.

caught me with my mouth full!

breakfast

To maintain herself at this time of  year, he explains, a cow needs three things: nourishment for herself, nourishment to produce the milk for her nursing baby, and nourishment to come into heat and conceive her next baby. Satisfying all three needs requires about 20 pounds of feed every day, but at this time of year that feed can’t be grass alone. Why? Because right now and for about the next two months or so, the new winter grass consists of nearly 98% water and not enough nutritional value.

“If the cows were left just with the natural forage, only very few would conceive. They wouldn’t have enough energy to produce milk for the babies at their sides. And older cows that are short of teeth would starve because there’s just not enough nutrition to keep them alive, ” Jim explains.

So how does Jim select the alfalfa he feeds? Turns out that, just like my screen, alfalfa hay is wysiwyg: what you see is what you get.

“I can tell just by looking at and feeling the hay, how much gross energy and gross protein it contains. From the color, the smell, and the feel I can tell how it was grown and how it was put up,” Jim says. And what’s he looking for? Small stems, good green color, an absence of mold, and lots of leaves. If the alfalfa is too “stemmy,” the cow can’t get the nutrition she needs. (To get a grip on this all-important stem-to-leaf ratio, check out this study by the USDA/University of Wisconsin: “Harvest-Fractionation of Alfalfa.” Or just call Jim.)

With about 180 animals in the herd at the Trabucco ranch (where we are right now), you can do the math to get an idea of this chore’s scope— 3600 pounds of hay have to be doled out each and every day at this location alone. But over the years, Jim’s developed an exquisitely efficient way of accomplishing the task: he throttles down to first gear, steps out of the pilot’s seat, and lets the tractor from hell wander the field as he tosses out the bright green flakes.

As the flakes land, the cattle, who’ve streamed over the hill to meet us,  mosey up to their feed in companionable groups. There’s no competition and no stress. Just the sound of munching.

And that reminds me, I’m hungry. I need breakfast, too, and my morning cappuccino. See you later.

Tractor from hell

For about a month now, everyone at Nevada County Free Range Beef has been after Jim to start blogging. There’d be talk of blogging, thought about blogging, careful consideration of blogging, then some other pressing matter would take center stage; like putting up a couple miles of new fencing, rescuing a newborn calf, or taping up some broken ribs (Jim’s).

“What is blogging, anyway, for cryin’ out loud!”  Jim would bark in his usual gravelly voice, on the rare occasions that we could capture him on the phone. And so we explained what it is, making up some of the details just to keep Jim’s interest.

And Jim was all for blogging. Just one problem. Or two, really. No, make that three.

1. Jim has a computer but has never actually plugged it in.
2. Jim has a cell phone but it often is either unintentionally thrown into irrigation ditches, stepped on by 400-lb. animals, or it has no bars.
3. The thought of Jim tapping away on any kind of keypad, full-scale or contextual, really gave us pause.

“You do it!” was the command.  Everyone else had a lot going on, so it fell to me, the city girl and a perfect foil for Jim Gates, the real deal, modern day cowboy.

“OK, Jim, but just don’t make me ride on that tractor again,” I implored. That would be the charmingly antique 1950 Ford tractor that Jim uses to do ranch chores and test the mettle of  white-knuckled visitors on tours of the terrain. Think Sean Connery or Tom Cruise on some spaghetti switchback road in Monaco or Italy, trying to force the villain over the edge and into oblivion. This is how Jim drives the tractor on a good day. The roll-out is slow, but note the monomaniacal grin on Jim’s face as he plots my fate.

the tractor from hell

“Whatever you say. We’ll always take the ‘gator,” Jim promised while muttering something.

Deal. But first time out for the blog, the comfy ‘gator was nowhere in sight. In its place: the tractor from hell. What makes this the tractor from hell, in addition to Jim’s driving, is the unfortunate fact that there’s no seat for a guest. To go on this journey, you have to perch over the axle while clinging to the back of the driver’s chair. When Jim picks up speed, you have to dodge globs of mud and other unidentifiable flying objects kicked up from beneath the tread.
But I had signed up for this blogging thing and there was a ranch to survey, there were stories to gather and cows to consider and I couldn’t be a wus and back down. Anyway, maybe the tractor from hell is a good enough metaphor for how it is at the whole Nevada County Free Range Beef operation: offbeat, charming, hard-working, and real. Or maybe those are good keywords for Jim himself.
I’ll be back tomorrow or the day after with more. And listen, don’t tell Jim about what’s in this blog. After all, I have to survive the next ranch visit.